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20/06/2017

Fashion every which way at abbreviated Milan Fashion Week

 

Runway shows for next spring and summer menswear collections were crammed into three days, ending Monday, with some fashion houses opting for presentations, others skipping menswear for combined men's and women's shows in September and yet others taking a break during creative transitions. The abbreviated calendar proved somewhat disorientating, leaving the feeling that something was missing.

Likewise, trends seemed to be going every which way. Many designers, for example, seemed not to have gotten the memo that these were warm-weather collections, with a plethora of winter fabrics like corduroy and velvet hitting the runway along with heavier gear like overcoats, beyond the seasonal bomber or duster.

One thing everyone agreed on: Millennial engagement. Some houses did that by inviting young personalities to either walk the runways or sit in the front row, while others sought to attract them with proportion plays, mixed media and other youthful touches. Armani invited Liam Payne of One Direction to see his preview show; Ferragamo seated Italian rapper Ghali in its front row; Fendi hosted actor Tommy Dorfman; and Dolce & Gabbana put no fewer than 106 style-setters from around the globe on their runway.

Here are some highlights from Monday's shows:

THE VERY BEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi's menswear collections was exquisitely light, summery in the best and most elegant sense of the word, best expressed in transparent nylon jackets that defined Fendi's new executive work.

A sheer salmon-colored printed suit jacket allowed a glimpse of suspenders from the back, and yet was weighty enough to give gravitas to the brown striped trousers and complementary golden tie. The Fendi man is down to business, but it may be at poolside, or in a hotel lounge, professional and yet playful at the same time.

"Lightness is our speciality," Fendi said backstage. "It was interesting to propose it on more classic looks, more traditional, with ties and clothing that I call a bit more executive, and create a contrast with the transparent jackets."

The silhouette of the looks had an easy Brat Pack feel, even if the story board backstage pictured Christian Bale in "American Psycho."

And in that vein, ties are back, if loosely knotted, and also suspenders, but they are paired with nylon trousers or a matching sheer short, and sling-back loafers or slip-on pool shoes. The bag of choice is either a serious leather bucket-back or a more whimsical nylon mesh carrier featuring one of the collection's quotidian motifs.

The looks featured repetitive prints that on closer inspection reveal themselves to be everyday objects: cups of coffee, faucets, bananas, old-fashioned desk lamps, martinis. For Fendi, these objects are not symbols of nostalgia, but of things that stay the same in a changing world.

"I like to take references from the past because they are fundamental certainties on which to build a future," she said. "But the collection is all new."

Fendi also has updated the logo with elegant subtlety. The brand's well-known interlocking Fs becomes a repeating print of its own on short-sleeve button-down shirts, and stand as logos above breast pockets on jackets, forming a stripe down trouser legs and stamped into the leather bill of baseball caps.

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14:28 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

06/06/2017

Ashley Graham Covers Glamour

 

Ashley Graham Covers Glamour; Lauren Conrad Designed a Maternity Line

Ashley Graham Covers Glamour

Ashley Graham was photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg for the cover of Glamour's July issue, sporting a La Blanca bikini under an orange Victoria Beckham top. The model opened up to Lauren Chan, a former model and longtime friend of Graham's, about the importance of size diversity, her new book and how she keeps her marriage on point.

Lauren Conrad Is Launching a Maternity Line for Kohl's

Soon-to-be first-time mom Lauren Conrad is launching her own maternity line for Kohl's. The collection will be an expansion of her LC Lauren Conrad label, and will drop on Wednesday with an offering of dresses, jeggings and tops. Prices have yet to be disclosed. "One of the things I really struggled with when I was shopping was that I wanted to maintain my everyday style, but I had trouble finding the types of pieces available in maternity collections," Conrad told People. "So I wanted to cater towards our existing customer who just happens to have a new shape, but still wants to dress in line with her style that she has had for years."

Puma Loses First Round of Infringement Case Against Forever21

A federal judge in California has refused to order a preliminary injunction against Forever21 after the retailer was accused by Puma of ripping off Rihanna's Fenty x Puma footwear designs, including a suede creeper, a faux-fur slide and a satin bow slide. The judge claimed that there was no "actual evidence of irreparable injury." After Puma filed the suit in April, Forever21 filed a request for dismissal, calling Puma's suit "thinly veiled anticompetitive intent."

Thom Browne Covers Surface Magazine

Thom Browne covers the sixth-annual American Influence issue of Surface magazine, which celebrates the influence of American designers and creatives in the art world. Browne, who is based in New York, opens up about not finding fashion until after college (he attended Notre Dame) and a brief attempt to become an actor in Los Angeles in the '90s. He added of his current creative process, "I don’t reference fashion for my collections, and I consciously don’t stay up and pay attention to it. For me, I feel like it just keeps it easier when you don’t know as much. Ignorance is bliss."

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13:37 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

26/05/2017

When Melania Trump met Brigitte Macron

 

If there was ever going to be another First Lady to out-glam Melania Trump, then Brigitte Macron was the woman for the mission.

Recently installed in the Elysee Palace, Macron has fast gained a reputation for her Louis Vuitton wardrobe, glossy Lob (that's long bob, by the way) and nonchalantly modern yet elegant way of putting a look together. Indeed, she has been hailed as having the credentials to reinvent notions of Parisian chic.

Mrs Trump's glamazon polish by now needs little introduction, but has been confirmed over the past week via a series of cinched-waist suits, ultra-feminine Dolce and Gabbana lace dresses and an unerring dedication to immaculate grooming as she has accompanied her husband on his first foreign tour.

So if the diplomatic stakes were high for the meetings of the Presidents of France and America this afternoon, then just imagine the meticulous planning which will have gone into prepping Macron and Trump for their wives summit.

In pure first impression terms, Melania Trump reigned supreme. She had chosen a custom-made beige leather suit by Belgian design house Maison Ullens for the Brussels meeting. Yes, 'leather' and 'beige', in front of all the world's cameras. Quite a feat. Paired with her carefully touselled, honey-hued locks and dazzling smile, the chances of anyone else getting a look in were about as tiny as the prospect of President Trump being able to hold his wife's hand for even one walk down a set of aeroplane steps.

There was hope yet though for Brigitte Macron who had once again been outfitted by Louis Vuitton, the French label with which she has become closely linked since she began frequently borrowing their pieces after meeting Delphine Arnault- Executive Vice President of the house- in 2014.

Opting for a chic LBD with a low slung, Vuitton-branded belt, Macron's tactic seemed to be that it was pointless trying to compete with Trump, instead taking the 'effortless' route, a word not in Melania's vocabulary. In many ways, it worked. She looked cool (especially with a monogrammed Vuitton 'Twist' bag slung over her shoulder) and not too-try-hard, qualities one could never pin against La Trump. Some observed that there was grumpy look about Macron's wife, perhaps not surprising given her own political differences with the American contingent.

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09:18 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)