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02/03/2018

8 Fashion Photographers On Why Diversity Is Harder Than It Looks

8 Fashion Photographers On Why Diversity Is Harder Than It Looks

At every turn, the fashion industry's key players are using their social platforms to call out its biggest issues — racism, sexual harassment, body diversity — both on and off the catwalk. But as brought up most recently by editors at The Cut and Fashionista, the streets are still a popularity contest: those in the photos are thin, white, and famous. On top of ebbing interest in street style as an outlet for inspiration, it'd seem the art of documenting current trends, and the people who wear them, feels more dated than ever. But it's going to take more than outrage to fix them, because diversity in street style is much more complicated to achieve than diversity on the runways. But don't take our word for it.

After asking a group of street style photographers, from Tommy Ton

to Melodie Jeng, a series of questions on the state of diversity in the industry, the imbalance between diversity on the runway and the streets, and just why we're all so angry, their answers highlight a problem that inspires a lot of tweets, but no real solutions. Not everyone agreed to comment, with a few of them not even allowed to by the publications that employ them.

In the beginning, we liked street style because it wasn't about celebrities — it was about real people. But then real people became celebrities and iPhones replaced a craft that, like most things in fashion, was forced to evolve. Because of this, we're seeing the unconscious bias play out in street style as it did with runway, and the focus of the industry's criticism has shifted. Not until now are people starting to notice the real trends — and we're not talking about clothes.

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28/02/2018

In the Studio With Paris’s New Fashion Darling

In the Studio With Paris’s New Fashion Darling

Just 10 months ago, the French fashion designer Marine Serre was toiling over garment patterns on her bed in the 160-square-foot apartment that she shared with her boyfriend in Paris’s 18th Arrondissement.Now, a few days out from her Paris Fashion Week debut, the 26-year-old is presiding over a team of more than 10 people in her new, 1,400-square-foot studio near the city’s original garment district.Her dramatic change in circumstance is largely thanks to last year’s LVMH Prize — which she won with only her graduate collection from La Cambre in Belgium — making her the first designer to ever secure the prestigious award without having officially established her brand.“This space is not exactly what I wanted, it’s too posh and Haussmannian,” Serre says of her light-filled headquarters, which feature parquet flooring and florid ceiling moldings. “I wanted to go in the industrial area of Pantin and get something much bigger.” Plus, she adds, she and the team are working past midnight most nights, and the neighbors have been complaining. “These old floorboards are noisy, but they’re nice about it,” she says.Photo

Serre’s face, framed by a tousled pixie cut, flushes with pride as she looks about: the studio is a hive of activity. Bodies, workbenches and machinery are crammed into four rooms that flow into one another. Serre and her boyfriend, Pepijn van Eeden, who serves as the brand’s general manager, share the corner office; their desks are at opposite ends, their backs turned to one another. A few plants are placed haphazardly about. To the side, a rack overflows with a jumble of loudly printed garments, most of them vintage or found in Moroccan souks.

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26/02/2018

THE "GUCCI CHALLENGE" IS 2018'S BEST VIRAL FASHION

THE "GUCCI CHALLENGE" IS 2018'S BEST VIRAL FASHION MEMEWhen Alessandro Michele sent models down the runway carrying disturbingly accurate replicas of their own heads during Gucci's autumn winter '18 show last week, he probably knew the internet would explode. He couldn't have guessed, however, that he'd spawn the first viral fashion meme of 2018.

Now dubbed the 'Gucci Challenge', the Gucci runway show has inspired hilarious parodies with fashion figures like Giovanna Battaglia and Anna Dello Russo recreating the headless look for the 'Gram.

The #GucciChallenge hashtag now has more than 300 images, with the number growing as more fashion obsessives jump on the tongue-in-cheek bandwagon.

See our favourite iterations here

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