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09/03/2018

AS FASHION MOVES TOWARDS A SEASONLESS MODEL

AS FASHION MOVES TOWARDS A SEASONLESS MODEL, HAS 'SEASONAL INSPIRATION' BECOME OBSOLETE?

Before he presented his Fall 2018 collection during New York Fashion Week in February, designer Dennis Basso revealed that his inspiration for the season was "today's woman." Basso does design primarily for women and it is, indeed, today, so this seems to make sense. Elsewhere, Jonathan Simkhai noted he was inspired by the slightly more abstract concept of "inner fortitude" (#same), while Chromat referenced the aesthetic of a kayaking trip and Raf Simons explored drugs and addiction, as well as their consequences. When Noon by Noor designers Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Haya Mohammed Al Khalifa were asked to name their influence for the season, the duo responded, simply: "captivating."

For those who pay attention to such things, the ritual of fashion designers announcing their seasonal inspiration — regularly collected in slideshows on sites like WWD and The Cut, outlined in show notes and assessed in runway reviews — can be entertaining, often pairing well with a snarky aside about the lofty ambitions of creative types. But, when designers are most successful in contextualizing their frames of mind by sharing what motivates them creatively, it can help us understand the ways in which fashion reflects what's happening around us in a broader way, giving what we wear an elevated sense of importance and lending a bit more relevance to the Fashion Week rigamarole, if not the entire industry.

And yet, as the business of fashion continues to evolve, the importance of having a distinct seasonal inspiration may be sliding further down the list of priorities for today's savviest designers.

To be fair, certain fashion talents have proven better equipped to articulate seasonal inspiration than others. Simons, Miuccia Prada and Alexander McQueen are often referenced as creative leads who understand (or, in the case of McQueen, understood) how to translate disparate muses from season to season into clothing that is of a particular time and place, but still feels like an extension of their overall body of work. Among other things, this way of working invited opportunities to create memorable runway shows.

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07/03/2018

Fashion Parties With the French President

Fashion Parties With the French President

On the penultimate night of fashion month, amid the final paroxysms of designers attempting to define how women want to look today, there was a show of a different kind.

Emmanuel Macron, president of France, and his wife, Brigitte, hosted a dinner at the Élysée Palace in honor of the industry’s creatives. It was the fashion equivalent of the pre-Davos C.E.O. summit that Mr. Macron engineered at Versailles in January. News began to leak out early in the week.

Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Valentino, who had come to Paris without a suit and had to go shopping at the Valentino boutique, emailed Haider Ackermann, creative director of Berluti: “Are you going to the dinner at the Élysée?”

“What dinner?” Mr. Ackermann replied. Then he got the invite. He had gone to Los Angeles directly after his own label’s show on Saturday to dress Timothée Chalamet and Mahershala Ali in Berluti for the Oscars, so after he got them ready, he got back on a plane and flew home. He wasn’t going to miss this one.

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05/03/2018

Jennifer Lawrence Channels a Fashion Warrior at the 2018 Oscars

Jennifer Lawrence Channels a Fashion Warrior at the 2018 Oscars

Jennifer Lawrence is ready for fashion war!

The Red Sparrow actress arrived to the 2018 Academy Awards in a body of armor (and art!). The metallic Dior gown featured a bodice with a sweetheart neckline and super-skinny straps. As the dress descends to the grown, metallic paillettes change in size and shape until a skirt drapes to the floor. The attention to detail and luxury is seen in every sequin.

The A-lister paired the seemingly heavy dress with mid-length waves to perhaps soften the look. Her strong smoky eye, featuring winged-out shadow, and a dark-orange lip brought a retro element to the very glam gown.

Jennifer isn't nominated this year, but she still made a strong style statement. This look is quite modern in comparison to the strapless, textured Dior ball gown she wore when Jennifer won the Oscar in 2013 for her role in Silver Linings Playbook. The Oscar winner went from red carpet princess to fashion warrior.

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