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05/07/2017

Local Prints and Florals

Vania Romoff’s Latest Collab Is a Celebration of Femininity via Local Prints and Florals

Filipino designer Vania Romoff collaborated with Plains & Prints for another capsule collection. Known for her romantic and feminine designs, the brand reached out to Vania to inject her style onto the collection.

“After working with so many designers in the past, we wanted a different approach,” said Roxanne Farillas, vice-president of Plains & Prints. “Vania’s known for her femininity. It’s still a mix of Plains & Prints, but you’ll still see her style in the collection. You’ll really see her personality in it.”

The 12-piece collection features functional clothing for the everyday woman. When we got a first look of the collab, I saw romantic blouses, airy day dresses, lightweight trousers, and vibrant pieces inspired by local influences. It was like seeing our version of springtime, especially with the floral prints. Even those who aren’t into feminine pieces might be drawn to them.

When asked how it’s different from her previous capsule collection with Plains & Prints, Vania said the designs are pulled from local influences.

“[I was] inspired by local flora and art work. There are also batik and ikat prints, and the bougainvillea is also evident in a lot of the pieces,” Vania explained. “A lot of it has a happy vibe. It’s very relaxed, wearable, and fun. It’s a very lighthearted collection.” And, as Roxanne said, you’ll see Vania’s penchant for dainty ribbons and delicate embellishments, and a hint of drama with how the fabric moves.

“The general feel of my collection is always feminine. I like to do a lot of skirts and flounces, always accentuating the waistline,” Vania said. “I don’t make dresses that are too avant-garde, they’re made for every type of woman. They’re not too sexy and not too complicated.”

The Plains & Prints x Vania Romoff collection will launch in select stores and online (their website, Zalora PH, and Amazon US) starting July 6. It’ll be available nationwide on July 15.

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10:11 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

29/06/2017

Covered-up fashion

Covered-up fashion: Why not baring all is suddenly stylish

I'd found it: the ideal dress for a black-tie summer wedding. This particular dress was long but lightweight, just embellished enough, with a neckline that wouldn't scandalise the grandmother of the bride. Except - I realised as I clicked ahead to the rear-view photo - that this otherwise perfect chapel-to-dance floor gown was backless.

"That's incredibly frustrating," says Ghizlan Guenez, founder and chief executive of The Modist, a new e-commerce site focused on the more decorous side of high fashion. Guenez, an elegant 38-year-old who grew up in Algiers, Beirut and London before settling into a private-equity career in Dubai, has a lifetime of experience with let-downs like these. She and many women in her circle choose to dress modestly, making every shopping expedition into a series of elimination rounds for nonconforming features. "If they find something they like, either it has a slit, or it's sleeveless or it's sheer... There are millions of women who dress this way and they've been completely underserved."

Until now, that is: Guenez launched The Modist in March 2017. With the tag-line "luxury modest fashion for extraordinary women", the online store is primed to reach a worldwide audience of women who prefer their fashion a bit more covered-up.

You won't find any crop tops, shorts, spaghetti straps or (ahem) backless gowns. What you will find is flattering dresses, midi skirts, interesting shirting and other assorted ready-to-wear that leaves a little something to the imagination. The site is a boon to any woman who's ever felt a dress would be perfect if only it had sleeves.

Guenez and her team leave defining what constitutes modesty to their shopper. "Really it's 'little-m' modest," Sasha Sarokin, the site's buying and fashion director and a 10-year alumna of Net-a-Porter, says with a smile. "It's more understated and a bit more refined. I enjoy buying for a woman who doesn't necessarily identify as modest or not; she just likes the look." To wit: her dress the day we meet is a high-necked, long-sleeved, mid-calf, tiger-printed number by Ukrainian designer Petar Petrov (which I know because I heard at least five women gasp over it and ask about the designer).

The site launched with a stable of 75 brands ranging from the established (Marni, Alberta Ferretti, Robert Clergerie) to the emerging (London-based Rejina Pyo and Racil; Turkish brand Mimya). The pitching process involved a good deal of visual-assisted education about modesty. But over and over again, Guenez and Sarokin would arrive at meetings to find that the women on the other side of the table were modestly dressed, whether they were conscious of that as a style choice or not.

For fashion undoubtedly is in the midst of a modest moment. The covered-up vision of beauty that Valentino pioneered has infiltrated every corner of the industry, prevailing at Gucci, Celine and Balenciaga. The breakout star of the autumn/winter runways was Halima Aden, a 19-year-old Somali-American model who wore her hijab on the MaxMara runway and on the covers of CR Fashion Book, Vogue Arabia and Allure.

Clearly, some of this shift stems from brands' growing awareness of the importance of the Muslim fashion market - it's projected to increase to $672 billion by 2019, according to a report from Thomson Reuters. Dolce & Gabbana introduced a line of hijabs in 2016, and Mango has quietly built its special collection for Ramadan into an impressive offering over the past 10 years.

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09:40 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

20/06/2017

Fashion every which way at abbreviated Milan Fashion Week

 

Runway shows for next spring and summer menswear collections were crammed into three days, ending Monday, with some fashion houses opting for presentations, others skipping menswear for combined men's and women's shows in September and yet others taking a break during creative transitions. The abbreviated calendar proved somewhat disorientating, leaving the feeling that something was missing.

Likewise, trends seemed to be going every which way. Many designers, for example, seemed not to have gotten the memo that these were warm-weather collections, with a plethora of winter fabrics like corduroy and velvet hitting the runway along with heavier gear like overcoats, beyond the seasonal bomber or duster.

One thing everyone agreed on: Millennial engagement. Some houses did that by inviting young personalities to either walk the runways or sit in the front row, while others sought to attract them with proportion plays, mixed media and other youthful touches. Armani invited Liam Payne of One Direction to see his preview show; Ferragamo seated Italian rapper Ghali in its front row; Fendi hosted actor Tommy Dorfman; and Dolce & Gabbana put no fewer than 106 style-setters from around the globe on their runway.

Here are some highlights from Monday's shows:

THE VERY BEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi's menswear collections was exquisitely light, summery in the best and most elegant sense of the word, best expressed in transparent nylon jackets that defined Fendi's new executive work.

A sheer salmon-colored printed suit jacket allowed a glimpse of suspenders from the back, and yet was weighty enough to give gravitas to the brown striped trousers and complementary golden tie. The Fendi man is down to business, but it may be at poolside, or in a hotel lounge, professional and yet playful at the same time.

"Lightness is our speciality," Fendi said backstage. "It was interesting to propose it on more classic looks, more traditional, with ties and clothing that I call a bit more executive, and create a contrast with the transparent jackets."

The silhouette of the looks had an easy Brat Pack feel, even if the story board backstage pictured Christian Bale in "American Psycho."

And in that vein, ties are back, if loosely knotted, and also suspenders, but they are paired with nylon trousers or a matching sheer short, and sling-back loafers or slip-on pool shoes. The bag of choice is either a serious leather bucket-back or a more whimsical nylon mesh carrier featuring one of the collection's quotidian motifs.

The looks featured repetitive prints that on closer inspection reveal themselves to be everyday objects: cups of coffee, faucets, bananas, old-fashioned desk lamps, martinis. For Fendi, these objects are not symbols of nostalgia, but of things that stay the same in a changing world.

"I like to take references from the past because they are fundamental certainties on which to build a future," she said. "But the collection is all new."

Fendi also has updated the logo with elegant subtlety. The brand's well-known interlocking Fs becomes a repeating print of its own on short-sleeve button-down shirts, and stand as logos above breast pockets on jackets, forming a stripe down trouser legs and stamped into the leather bill of baseball caps.

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14:28 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)