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26/03/2018

Fashion Week El Paseo Closing Night: Ralph Rucci

Fashion Week El Paseo Closing Night: Ralph Rucci

In Palm Springs real estate, it’s all about location. In Ralph Rucci’s new collection, which debuted to a standing ovation on the final night of Fashion Week El Paseo, it’s all about the fabrics: the silks, the wool crepe, the leather and fur, even a silky ephemeral cape that floats off a model’s shoulder like a bridal veil and printed with the most delicate and original design.

Rucci’s collection – and each individual look — embodies an artistic vision: a cut out dress that reveals just slivers of skin with a spider-webbed back; or cutouts that follow the line of the shoulder and swoop of the scapula elevate the concept of power suit to a whole new level. Even the models, wearing identical tight buns, look empowered in his designs. You could practically feel how luxurious a bright pink silk kaftan felt flowing just above bare feet. I imagined wearable butter.

Unlike other designers who favor top-of-the-leg hemlines and open backs and plunge necklines, often in the same dress, Rucci understands that the true meaning of sexy is about a deliberate hide and reveal, as well as a deep appreciation for the structure of a woman’s body, which each look is designed to follow and enhance. Most of Rucci’s dresses fall just above the knee or to the floor. You’ll never see a woman tugging down the hemline of a Rucci dress to avoid a wardrobe malfunction. In fact his clothes are designed to function beautifully, even perfectly, and his artistry is what has made him both celebrated and beloved. A black dress with an illusion neckline features a back detail that traces a woman’s spine. Another dress carved out at the waist has a slight waist and illusion back – variations on the same theme, but showing just the right amount of skin that is less about suggesting what might lie beneath and more about “this is what I choose to show.” A suit with a boxy texture and shape has cuts in the fabric that are only visible as the model moves makes a striking statement: these clothes are meant to be embodied by a woman, and the grace and beauty of the designs are activated only as she moves.

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