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13/02/2018

 Black Panther' transports New York Fashion Week to Wakanda with inclusive show

Black Panther' transports New York Fashion Week to Wakanda with inclusive show

Welcome to Wakanda Fashion Week.

On Monday night, Black Panther's colors, spirit and inspirations made their way to New York Fashion Week at Black Panther: Welcome To Wakanda, a charity presentation featuring 10 designers who contributed pieces inspired by the forthcoming Marvel film (out Feb. 16).

Labels including Chromat, Cushnie et Ochs, LaQuan Smith, Ikiré Jones, Sophie Theallet and TOME participated with custom-made apparel, jewelry and footwear for the event, all of which will be auctioned off following the show to support Save the Children.

The Welcome to Wakanda event also introduced capsule collections from Brother Vellies, Douriean Fletcher and Josh Bennett, which will launch commercially following the event.

Opening Friday to rave reviews, Black Panther is shaping up to be a historic triumph for Marvel, already setting records for its advanced ticket sales and earning praise from critics for its impressive on-screen representation of powerful women and diverse heroes.

With such a broad theme, the Welcome to Wakanda designers channeled Black Panther by drawing on symbolism from the movie, with some looks incorporating African fabrics or motifs.

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07/02/2018

Fashion Has an Image Problem Glamour is predicated on transgression.

Fashion Has an Image Problem Glamour is predicated on transgression.

Suddenly, fashion photography seems stale. But not just stale — also cruel. The recent allegations of sexual abuse by Bruce Weber and Mario Testino suggest that the tension that gives most fashion imagery its charge might come at a very human cost. This should have been obvious all along — just look at the images, suffused by a vernacular of degradation, pain, and suffering. As “casting couch” practices persisted in Hollywood, the idea that a model was a mirror for a photographer’s dark urges seemed too obvious to interrogate. Or perhaps too discomforting, given that our desires were reflected in those images. Objectification was the price of admission to a supposedly glamorous world. All along the fashion food chain, everybody benefited, so long as the models kept their silence.

New York is inundated with pictures of style, but do you have any idea how to make sense of them or how they came to be? I did not, until many years ago, when I worked as a creative director making fashion ads. The library at the company where I worked contained thousands of magazines. For months on end, I combed through old issues looking for references to use in upcoming advertising campaigns. During this process, I became familiar with the worst visual clichés of the genre: people jumping for no reason, models staring into the middle distance with slightly parted lips, every kind of “native” juxtaposed with tall, skinny blondes. (See also: naked people in trees, gratuitous lesbianism, white couples on permanent safari, bodies splayed on a floor as if they were boneless dolls.) The formula for a fashion shoot seemed to hinge on pinpointing taboos, then pushing right up to their limit and often beyond. If the fantasies depicted didn’t trigger a little flicker of absurdity or distaste, the images didn’t seem to be doing their job.

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05/02/2018

How the humble T-shirt became a fashion statement

How the humble T-shirt became a fashion statement

opens at the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey, south London, on, will look at the garment’s evolution from practical tunic in medieval times to a medium for political and social messaging in the 20th and 21st centuries.

“The T-shirt has taken on a role as a signifier, a statement of intent for the wearer,” says curator Dennis Nothdruft. “It has developed an amazing power to communicate and to create a dialogue between the wearer and the world.”

The exhibition’s 12 sections, on topics including ethics and ecology, merchandise and advertising, include a gallery looking at why the gender-neutral T-shirt is one of the only truly democratic fashion items. More than 200 items will be on display, with examples ranging from a 500AD relic to Christian Dior’s “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirt, seen on the Paris catwalk in 2017.

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