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22/06/2017

the Men’s Spring 2018 Runways

 

‘Dad Style’ Is Taking Over the Men’s Spring 2018 Runways

Is it time to raid our dads’ closets? According to the spring ’18 men’s shows, start digging. One of the biggest runway trends for the season — London, Milan and Paris included — saw designers reference normcore dad-inspired looks. Think pieces like retro ’80s runners, ratty ball caps and, yes, socks with sandals.

The intentionally unfashionable aesthetic began with Balenciaga. For the past few seasons, creative director Demna Gvasalia has found beauty in the mundane, reinventing classics like the retro runner, which he did for fall with triple-stacked soles. This season in Paris, his spring collection was entirely dedicated to dads, with shoes including chunky sneakers and monk straps plastered with the brand logo.

In London, Martine Rose showed a spring collection of colorful retro runners too — a dad favorite. He paired the shoes with normcore pieces like pullover fleeces, khaki shorts and baggy stonewash jeans.

Meanwhile, in Milan, N. 21 continued the momentum with seriously colorful retro runners. The label also showed slide sandals paired with socks, a look that says, “I’m a dad, and I’m barbecuing.” At Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi showcased a collection of workwear-meets-vacation wear, which embraced the classic button-up and tie dad look, paired with leather pool slides.

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10:26 Publié dans Blog | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

20/06/2017

Fashion every which way at abbreviated Milan Fashion Week

 

Runway shows for next spring and summer menswear collections were crammed into three days, ending Monday, with some fashion houses opting for presentations, others skipping menswear for combined men's and women's shows in September and yet others taking a break during creative transitions. The abbreviated calendar proved somewhat disorientating, leaving the feeling that something was missing.

Likewise, trends seemed to be going every which way. Many designers, for example, seemed not to have gotten the memo that these were warm-weather collections, with a plethora of winter fabrics like corduroy and velvet hitting the runway along with heavier gear like overcoats, beyond the seasonal bomber or duster.

One thing everyone agreed on: Millennial engagement. Some houses did that by inviting young personalities to either walk the runways or sit in the front row, while others sought to attract them with proportion plays, mixed media and other youthful touches. Armani invited Liam Payne of One Direction to see his preview show; Ferragamo seated Italian rapper Ghali in its front row; Fendi hosted actor Tommy Dorfman; and Dolce & Gabbana put no fewer than 106 style-setters from around the globe on their runway.

Here are some highlights from Monday's shows:

THE VERY BEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi's menswear collections was exquisitely light, summery in the best and most elegant sense of the word, best expressed in transparent nylon jackets that defined Fendi's new executive work.

A sheer salmon-colored printed suit jacket allowed a glimpse of suspenders from the back, and yet was weighty enough to give gravitas to the brown striped trousers and complementary golden tie. The Fendi man is down to business, but it may be at poolside, or in a hotel lounge, professional and yet playful at the same time.

"Lightness is our speciality," Fendi said backstage. "It was interesting to propose it on more classic looks, more traditional, with ties and clothing that I call a bit more executive, and create a contrast with the transparent jackets."

The silhouette of the looks had an easy Brat Pack feel, even if the story board backstage pictured Christian Bale in "American Psycho."

And in that vein, ties are back, if loosely knotted, and also suspenders, but they are paired with nylon trousers or a matching sheer short, and sling-back loafers or slip-on pool shoes. The bag of choice is either a serious leather bucket-back or a more whimsical nylon mesh carrier featuring one of the collection's quotidian motifs.

The looks featured repetitive prints that on closer inspection reveal themselves to be everyday objects: cups of coffee, faucets, bananas, old-fashioned desk lamps, martinis. For Fendi, these objects are not symbols of nostalgia, but of things that stay the same in a changing world.

"I like to take references from the past because they are fundamental certainties on which to build a future," she said. "But the collection is all new."

Fendi also has updated the logo with elegant subtlety. The brand's well-known interlocking Fs becomes a repeating print of its own on short-sleeve button-down shirts, and stand as logos above breast pockets on jackets, forming a stripe down trouser legs and stamped into the leather bill of baseball caps.

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14:28 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

16/06/2017

What about fashion

 

What about fashion, daddy cool?

Fathers are known for the many wonderful things and, of course, for bad jokes! I mean, even Barack Obama succumbed to them through his presidency, although we must add, they were pretty entertaining (or maybe we were actually amused at how his daughters were not amused by his ‘dad jokes’).

But, if there is something else that fathers are also notorious for, it has got to be their inimitable, and sometimes, eccentric sense of fashion. With their fondness for peculiar colour combinations, snazzy ties, socks with sandals, classic running shoes with formal pants, tweed blazers till summer arrives, or their predilection for wearing old college tees (if they still manage to fit into them), fathers around the world are responsible for what is often referred to as ‘Dad Fashion’.

With Father’s Day round the corner, we realised, that despite their fashion idiosyncrasies, dads don’t usually get any credit for their appearance, which is a real shame, because if you look intently, they have flaunted some of the coolest trends their sons now admire or are now chasing after.

Jeremy Arthur, a music teacher, recalls, “Growing up, my dad had this combination of ‘smart casual’ and ‘too casual’. He would wear a shirt with shorts and top it off with an ascot cap and cool shades. Back then, I thought it was really geeky and was embarrassed. He would ride his Chetak scooter in front of my friends dressed like that. Obviously, now my perception has changed and it is quite nice to see him almost in his 60s, still the same. He doesn’t care what people think and that appears to be quite cool to me.”

‘Like father, like son’, they say, and for good reason. Boys don’t just pick up the same skills or have a proclivity for the same kind of automobiles, or ape their father’s mannerisms. Many of them end up dressing like their fathers at least when they are old enough to think turtle-necks and stonewashed denims are as cool as their fathers made them out to be.

Jacob Anand, content lead -- social edia and film, at AJIO, says: “My father lived out his 20s in the 1970s. Now I am quite envious of that because I think the 70s were all about decadent style and bringing attitude and good tailoring together. Things did get a little out of hand with the collars, flares and polyesters — it was the disco era after all —but overall, it was a good time for fits. Somehow, everyone in the 70s seemed to be lean and mean.

 

My dad was no exception. He wore what you now now call slim-fit shirts that were tailored to fit his frame perfectly. While I struggle to keep the girth of my mid-section in check, I see photos of him in these sleek shirts and sigh internally. I am moving towards getting more of my clothes tailored instead of buying them off the rack.”

“My father has has not changed much, including in his style statement. Half sleeved shirts, un-tucked linen shirts, or kurtas and sandals are what you normally see him wear. While I initially thought that this was an uncool way of dressing, watching him carry this style with ease made me change my mind. He has never dressed to please others, which is one of the attributes that I admire about him. Now, years later, I find myself following his footsteps and imitating his style,” confesses Mohan Benjamin, who works as a HR and culture manager.

For Prateek Ruhail, currently pursuing his MBA from Oxford, the story is almost similar. He says, “I would often see my father pair denims with brogue shoes or dress shoes. I occasionally asked him why he wouldn’t wear sneakers or dress more casually. He would smile and say he likes it that way. Post my graduation, I bought my first pair of true Oxford brogues (in beige). As fancy as they were, without realising, I started wearing them with denims whenever I wanted to look sharp for dinner or an event. It is only now that I realise I was actually imitating my idol — my father.”

Interestingly, while a number of men have come to love and even imitate their father’s style of dressing, women who have a keen eye for detail, never fail to notice and appreciate their father’s dress sense.

“My dad was always impeccably dressed, especially to school (he was the principal of a well-known ICSE school then) as well as to church,” says Anita Ranbhise, a teacher. She adds: “His suit, tie, socks and shoes were always well co-ordinated. I especially admired his collection of ties; they were smart. He took pride in being well dressed. One accessory that he loved was his golf hat. He always teamed it up with his casual wear and he looked dapper! Be it for an evening walk or to buy vegetables, he never stepped out of the house without it. I loved that look of his the most.”

And so it is true, as the American comedian Jerry Seinfeld says, “You can tell what the best year of your father’s life was, because they seem to freeze that clothing style and ride it out.” This Father’s Day, why not appreciate him for being Daddy Cool?

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08:47 Publié dans Blog | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)