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Covered-up fashion

Covered-up fashion: Why not baring all is suddenly stylish

I'd found it: the ideal dress for a black-tie summer wedding. This particular dress was long but lightweight, just embellished enough, with a neckline that wouldn't scandalise the grandmother of the bride. Except - I realised as I clicked ahead to the rear-view photo - that this otherwise perfect chapel-to-dance floor gown was backless.

"That's incredibly frustrating," says Ghizlan Guenez, founder and chief executive of The Modist, a new e-commerce site focused on the more decorous side of high fashion. Guenez, an elegant 38-year-old who grew up in Algiers, Beirut and London before settling into a private-equity career in Dubai, has a lifetime of experience with let-downs like these. She and many women in her circle choose to dress modestly, making every shopping expedition into a series of elimination rounds for nonconforming features. "If they find something they like, either it has a slit, or it's sleeveless or it's sheer... There are millions of women who dress this way and they've been completely underserved."

Until now, that is: Guenez launched The Modist in March 2017. With the tag-line "luxury modest fashion for extraordinary women", the online store is primed to reach a worldwide audience of women who prefer their fashion a bit more covered-up.

You won't find any crop tops, shorts, spaghetti straps or (ahem) backless gowns. What you will find is flattering dresses, midi skirts, interesting shirting and other assorted ready-to-wear that leaves a little something to the imagination. The site is a boon to any woman who's ever felt a dress would be perfect if only it had sleeves.

Guenez and her team leave defining what constitutes modesty to their shopper. "Really it's 'little-m' modest," Sasha Sarokin, the site's buying and fashion director and a 10-year alumna of Net-a-Porter, says with a smile. "It's more understated and a bit more refined. I enjoy buying for a woman who doesn't necessarily identify as modest or not; she just likes the look." To wit: her dress the day we meet is a high-necked, long-sleeved, mid-calf, tiger-printed number by Ukrainian designer Petar Petrov (which I know because I heard at least five women gasp over it and ask about the designer).

The site launched with a stable of 75 brands ranging from the established (Marni, Alberta Ferretti, Robert Clergerie) to the emerging (London-based Rejina Pyo and Racil; Turkish brand Mimya). The pitching process involved a good deal of visual-assisted education about modesty. But over and over again, Guenez and Sarokin would arrive at meetings to find that the women on the other side of the table were modestly dressed, whether they were conscious of that as a style choice or not.

For fashion undoubtedly is in the midst of a modest moment. The covered-up vision of beauty that Valentino pioneered has infiltrated every corner of the industry, prevailing at Gucci, Celine and Balenciaga. The breakout star of the autumn/winter runways was Halima Aden, a 19-year-old Somali-American model who wore her hijab on the MaxMara runway and on the covers of CR Fashion Book, Vogue Arabia and Allure.

Clearly, some of this shift stems from brands' growing awareness of the importance of the Muslim fashion market - it's projected to increase to $672 billion by 2019, according to a report from Thomson Reuters. Dolce & Gabbana introduced a line of hijabs in 2016, and Mango has quietly built its special collection for Ramadan into an impressive offering over the past 10 years.

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09:40 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


Shoe Design Lawsuit

Ivanka Trump Ordered to Give Deposition in Shoe Design Lawsuit

Ivanka Trump has been ordered to give a deposition in a lawsuit that claims her namesake brand's "Hettie" sandal allegedly copied Aquazzura's "Wild Thing" heel.

In June 2016, the Italian shoe label filed a lawsuit in New York's Southern District against Trump, IT Collection LLC and Marc Fisher Holdings LLC, the manufacturer of her shoe line, claiming that Ivanka's fringed heel ripped off Aquazzura's copyrighted design.

Ivanka filed a response at the time, writing that she "denies that she has engaged in any acts of infringement of Plaintiff’s purported trade dress, unfair competition or deceptive trade practices, and lacks knowledge or information sufficient to form a belief as to the truth of the remainder of the allegations," and asked the court to dismiss the suit.

The first daughter also claims she had "no involvement in the conception, design, production or sale of the 'Hettie' Shoe," according to court documents. "Instead, such responsibilities belonged to the Company's licensee, Marc Fisher." Her lawyers have also said that ordering her to give a deposition "would be an unnecessary distraction and would interfere with her ability to perform her duties at the White House," according to CNNMoney.

She currently serves as an unpaid adviser with the official title of assistant to the president after stepping down from her company in January and appointing Abigail Klem as the brand's new president.

However, U.S. District Judge Katherine B. Forrest, who's overseeing the case, rules that it's necessary for Ivanka to give a deposition because she served as an executive at the time and had a "high-level, authoritative, personal involvement," read a document filed Friday. Forrest states that the deposition must be limited to two hours and held in Washington, D.C., where Ivanka currently lives with her family. It should also be done by October, said Forrest.

Ivanka's company declined to comment on the news.

Aquazzura designer Edgardo Osario, who founded his company in 2011, took to Instagram last April to point out the similarities between the shoe designs.

"One of the most disturbing things in the fashion industry is when someone blatantly steals your copyright designs and doesn't care," he captioned a side-by-side image of the two heels. "You should know better. Shame on you @ivankatrump! Imitation is NOT the most sincere form of flattery."

Despite Ivanka's new role in the White House, she appeared on Fox & Friends Monday morning, stating, "I try to stay out of politics." She added: "I instead like to focus on areas where I can add positive value, where I can contribute to the agenda."

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Five Fashionable Windows

Saks Fifth Avenue Honors Amazon Shows With Five Fashionable Windows

When you’re working on a TV show that gathers buzz and a few awards since its premiere, borrowing clothes gets a lot easier: Consider the pleated black jacket Malcolm McDowell was wearing at Saks Fifth Avenue on Thursday evening. “It’s Issey Miyake,” explained Katie Riley, costume designer for Mozart in the Jungle, in which McDowell stars; the Golden Globe-winning series kicked off filming for its fourth season this week. “We’re using a few of his things this season, and he’s been very generous with us,” Riley said of the Japanese designer.

“Katie takes good care of me,” McDowell noted. “And she doesn’t like to spend money, this one. She’s very careful with her budget. I’ll say, ‘How did you get me jeans by James Perse, they’re $600!’ And she’ll say, ‘Oh, I got them on sale, 60 bucks.’ She’s brilliant.”

Riley’s work on Mozart, together with four other Amazon shows — Transparent, Patriot, The Man in the High Castle, and Z: The Beginning of Everything — have captured the spotlight in five windows at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York flagship as part of an Emmys For Your Consideration promotion, with each display marrying costumes and production design from each series with current-season fashion. “They’re really honoring the genius of people like Katie, who do so much with so little,” McDowell said on the red carpet, which preceded a cocktail party on Saks’ second floor. The windows will be on display through Thursday, June 29.

The decision by the upscale retailer to highlight shows featuring often-unconventional storylines was an easy one, said Mark Briggs, chief creative officer for Saks Fifth Avenue. “One of the key things to understand is that we constantly try to push the boundaries and merge the retail experience with today’s lifestyle experience,” he said. “These five shows offer you something very, very different, and we wanted to mirror that. At the end of the day, the world is a very different place now, and we wanted to capture the essence of these stories within each window while showcasing both fashion and design.”

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07:54 Publié dans Blog | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)