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the week’s fashion trends


Going up

Coach x Rodarte Specifically the sequinned biker. Dreamy.

Naki Depass Everywhere at the AW17 shows. Google her now.

Acne Bla Konst No, this is not the new hygge, it’s Acne’s reworked jeans collection. Refined to three styles – baggy, straight and skinny – that’s the kind of minimalism we can get behind.

The dressing-to-match-art Insta Any inspiration for how to look more like a Jeff Koons sculpture is welcome.

ByOcular New glasses line launched by retail genius Caren Downie, ex-Finery. Think the artiest take on specs. We like the Boffin shape - clever in both name and style.

Withnail & I Forget Camberwell carrots. Celebrate the film’s 30th anniversary in great coats, foppish shirts and unkempt hair. Delightful weekend in the country optional.

Going down

Brooklyn Beckham’s first tattoo We weren’t expecting a picture of a Native American chief.

Pet hair watches We love pets. But harvesting their fur for a personalised timepiece? Not so much.

Kendall Jenner’s ‘jeans’ Deconstruction taken to its logical point or just frightful?

Avocados Avocaderia – an avo-dedicated restaurant – has opened in Brooklyn. When something sounds like a Kimmy Schmidt storyline you know it’s over.

Charcoal Copper is our bathroom cabinet mineral. Appaz helps increase collagen in skin.

Kale Brussels sprouts are the thing now, according to Harry Styles.

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07:36 Publié dans Blog | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


A look at the rising popularity


A look at the rising popularity and why labels are turning to the Middle East for inspiration

Modest dress is enjoying a renaissance. Fashion brands are increasingly embracing the long-held view shared by those in region that style does not have to equate to revealing a lot of flesh.

Building on the foundations of sensuality over sexuality, and demure over décolletage, the West is finally catching up with the Middle East in terms of tasteful dressing.

Women in the Middle East have long expressed their fashion taste through layering and soft silhouettes, with abayas that brush across the hips and catch at the wrist.

Dressing in clothes that are cut to conceal rather than reveal, the focus is shifted so a glimpse of ankle becomes more potent than a bare torso paraded for all the world to see.

Who has not gazed in awe as a woman sashays past, swathed from head to toe, as graceful as a swan? The difference now is that the runways in New York, Milan, Paris and London have caught on to the elegance such flowing lines convey.

Fashion has always acted as a barometer of attitudes in society, reflecting mood and thoughts, expressed through the length of hemlines and tightness of cut.

The severe tailoring of wartime Europe, for example, was swept away by Christian Dior and his New Look of 1948. Using yards and yards of fabric in the skirt, it was a heartfelt rebellion against European post-war rationing and austerity.

Now, as hemlines have dropped and outlines softened to the point of billowing, fashion is more gentle and more forgiving. By choosing loose-fitting and comfortable outfits, women with the busiest of lives can now get on with their day, freed from the tyranny of tight-fitting "body-con" styles.

Perhaps the timing of this is no coincidence. In an age of political division with leaders seeking to drive wedges between countries and races, the fashion industry is embracing a code of dress associated with the Islamic Middle East, and helping blur the boundaries that separate us.

"The misconception about women who cover being oppressed is being challenged," says Gaelle Dalati, the communications manager of fashion house Symphony Style Group.

"This is a chance to explain that modest dressing is about focusing on the inside, not showing off the outside. It is about dressing beautifully and elegantly and respecting who you are.

"Instead of modest dressing being seen in a negative light, now it is very fashionable – it is so elegant. It has changed the way people think about how we dress."

With more than half the population in the region under the age of 25, and with growing spending power, the GCC market is too large to ignore.

"International brands have picked up on this trend and have created collections catering to the modest woman – brands such as DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Oscar de la Renta, Monique Lhuillier, Zara, Mango, Uniglo," says Bong Guerrero, the chief executive of the Dubai style platform Fashion Forward.

"Modest fashion is one of the industry’s fastest-growing sectors and the demand is increasing for this style of clothing.

"According to the 2015-2016 State of the Global Islamic Economy Report, Muslims spend approximately US$230 billion (Dh844bn) annually on clothing, which is projected to grow to $327 billion by 2019."

With such large sums at stake, it is no surprise that Italian giant Dolce & Gabbana unveiled an abaya collection last year or that sports company Nike last month announced plans to release a sports hijab.

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05:36 Publié dans Blog | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


Theresa May’s latest fashion favourite


Loth as we are to comment on Theresa May’s clothes following trousergate, her “lucky” suit and the kerfuffle over her leopard-print shoes, the sight of the prime minister wearing a dress by a British designer called Daniel Blake to announce a general election is ripe for the unpacking.

The dress itself was a serious pinstriped shift with an interesting neck and one oversized button – an aesthetic that is raging in high fashion at the moment, as seen on the Balenciaga autumn/winter 2017 catwalk. May wore a black coat by Daniel Blake to meet Donald Trump in January.

But what to make of the fact that Daniel Blake is also the title character in Ken Loach’s Palme d’Or-winning film I, Daniel Blake – about a Geordie joiner’s struggles with the bureaucracy of the benefits system in austerity Britain? At first glance it appears that Daniel Blake the designer brand has little in common with Daniel Blake the Ken Loach character.

The designer is independent, east London-based and launched his label in 2002. His aesthetic is structured, elegant and office-friendly – military coats with Vivienne Westwood-esque oversized lapels; sharp jackets with popped collars. Blake remained shy about the commission, saying merely that he was “delighted that the PM has chosen to wear the asymmetric pinstripe dress with button detail”. The prices are benefits-unfriendly – May’s dress was based on his pinstripe kimono dress, which comes in at £495 – but it would be unfair to link Blake too directly with the “crush the saboteurs” image of which his dress has unwittingly become part. The designer has been known to retweet the film’s anti-austerity campaigning messages with the hashtag #wearealldanielblake, and his past charity projects include helping rehabilitate prisoners through fashion.

Could this be a campaign from the inside? Whether or not May has seen the film is unclear, but she must be aware of it, not least because Jeremy Corbyn urged her during PMQs to watch it to get an insight into life on benefits. He also suggested that the work and pensions secretary, Damian Green, sit in, too; Green described the film as “monstrously unfair” before admitting he hadn’t actually seen it. At the very least, it’s cheering to think that every time May looks at that dress or her jacket, there will be a little reminder of the devastating struggle of one Geordie carpenter.

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05:16 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)