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On a Youth Kick


Youth is the cause célèbre here. There is a sour sense that the next generation of great designers has yet to come. Figuring out who they are is part of the task of the newly established LVMH Prize. It will offer 300,000 euros (about $412,000) and industry mentorship to the winner of an open contest — provided he or she is younger than 40, with at least two collections already in hand.


Who is the face of youth? Maybe it is the effervescent Simon Porte Jacquemus, 24, one of 30 semifinalists, whose line, Jacquemus, is humming with buzz. He called his fall runway show “La Femme Enfant” (“The Baby Girl”). His idea, he said, had been to have something “very raw and fresh, but very naïve.” His oversize, cartoony garments, made of spongy neoprene in crayon colors — he compared the texture to children’s play mats — had a childlike perversity that both charmed and jarred. It plunged guests waist-deep into its childhood world, right down to its collection-complementing uniform: a brightly dotted smock handed out to each attendee to don for the show.


(Image: queenie white bridesmaid dresses )


The buzz attending Mr. Jacquemus’s ascent did not drown out dissenters who wondered if grown women long to dress like la femme enfant. But his daffy, cheerful show did suggest that one might like to have what he’s having. Especially since two of fashion’s sharpest-eyed spotters of avant-talent, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe of Comme des Garçons, have fixed on him as one to watch.


Or maybe youth is another competitor, Yang Li, 26. If Mr. Jacquemus stakes a claim to child’s play, Mr. Li aims for adult polish — up to a point. He began with the stuff of traditional luxury (fur, calf, double-face wool-cashmere), then twisted the knife. A single piece might be exactingly constructed, then rent to its raw edges by the hem. (It was, he said, a constant challenge to persuade his factories in Italy, accustomed to perfection, to tear apart their pieces.) “For me, this is the answer to modern luxury,” he said. “It needs to be more than perfection.” It lent a touch of anarchy to his poise.


Or then, of course, it could be one of 28 others. But even with the rage for youth in full flare, Paris Fashion Week also put forth plenty of seasoned designers whose examples would be worth following. One is Christophe Lemaire, whose collections make a case for forging one’s own path (not least because Mr. Lemaire’s led him to Hermès, where in 2010 he was named women’s designer). Mr. Lemaire’s heroine is flinty and strong, more Katharine Hepburn than Katy Perry, and he doesn’t hesitate to bundle her in layers of yak wool, felt, alpaca and gabardine. But his clothes have a quiet appeal, and it’s not hard to imagine women wanting to wear them. It may not hurt that he designs with one: his partner, Sarah-Linh Tran. She appears even more reticent than Mr. Lemaire. But, he said with a smile, “She’s the boss.”

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07:09 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


how to smell like Hannibal Lecter or Jeremy Clarkson


With Mother's Day looming on the horizon, you might already be wondering what gift could best express your love for the woman who brought you into the world. Worry no more. Gaumont International Television, NBC Universal and brand-marketing firm Evolution have announced plans to create a perfume based on the hit NBC show Hannibal. After all, nothing says "thanks for raising me" like a tiny bottle of offal-stinking water with a picture of a serial killer on the front, does it?


Admittedly, if you wanted to overlook the whole murderer thing, this decision does almost make a fraction of sense. After all, Hannibal is an impossibly beautiful show. It's gorgeous to look at. It's an aesthete's programme, and this sensibility is fairly easy to carry over into upscale merchandise. Besides, fragmented viewing behaviour means that broadcasters need to look away from traditional advertising models for new sources of revenue, so why not perfume?


(Image: popular black bridesmaid dresses online )


Well, because it's tacky and stupid, obviously. But where Hannibal will lead, other shows will follow. So if you don't fancy smelling like a serial killer, keep your money in your pocket and wait for these inevitable show-based perfumes to hit the market.


Mad Men


You've already started to Brylcreem your hair and order undrinkable cocktails in grotty hotel bars, so why not go one step further to capture the classic, timeless elegance of Don Draper by splashing on some official Mad Men aftershave? Made with a base of stale alcohol and morning breath, with a topnote of how your clothes used to smell when you got home from a night out before the smoking ban, this fragrance will have strangers everywhere thinking, "Why does that man stink?" and, "Why won't he stop following me around?"


Here Comes Honey Boo Boo


Honey Boo Boo didn't become America's best-loved sassy, poverty-stricken beauty-queen toddler for no reason, you know. Her success is completely down to the fact that people want to be her. And now, thanks to the Here Comes Honey Boo Boo perfume, they can. There's a pretty good chance that this perfume is just watered-down shop-soiled generic-brand ketchup that someone fished out of a bin, but that doesn't matter. After all, you know what they say – style never goes out of fashion.


Call the Midwife


This year, show your grandmother that you love her with a bottle of Call the Midwife eau de toilette. It's nothing short of total nostalgia in a bottle. The scent contains elements of tea, biscuits, gravy browning, Keep Calm and Carry On posters and then – suddenly, out of nowhere – an overwhelming blast of blood and faeces that you're not really sure fits with the rest of the fragrance. The perfect representation of the show itself.


Top Gear


Your dad already wears an I Am the Stig T-shirt, and a Top Gear baseball cap. He uses a Top Gear pen at work, and owns every single volume of Jeremy Clarkson's literary output. He doesn't even like Top Gear that much. He just gets given it because he's a bloke. So now it's time for your dad to resign himself to the fact that he'll definitely be getting a bottle of Top Gear aftershave for Christmas. Petrol. Warm Beer. Elements of chalk cliff. Curry. Whatever the queen smells like. Money. New car air fresheners. Brut. Those carrier bags full of grotty porn magazines you used to find in the woods as a kid. All this and more, just waiting to be left unopened in the back of a bathroom cabinet somewhere forever. Your dad's a lucky man.

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04:00 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


How to get the look: Outfit revivers


Meh, February… what a dull sort of month you are.

Yep, it's that miserable, indeterminate time of year again, when you're ready to inject some springtime novelty into your wardrobe but the weather isn't playing ball. Praise be, then, for the revivifying accessory.

Ah yes, the mythical teeny tweak that transforms an outfit. Does that exist?

Sure. Take a pair of jeans and a plain black sweater. So far, so vanilla. Add this floral necklace from Tory Burch and suddenly you have understated but unmistakable contemporary chic. Personally, I think the zingy coral shade would perk up a bit of grey jersey a treat.

Wow. I agree but, er, it would actually be cheaper to buy a whole new outfit.

Fair point. I'd avoid most statement jewellery if you haven't much cash, unless the statement you want to make is "I'm on a budget" – hardware such as jewellery tends to wear its cheap origins on its (tarnished metal) sleeve. Instead, go for a scarf that's light enough to keep on indoors, so you get maximum wearing opportunity – & Other Stories has a great knitted-cotton leopard-print one with a striped border that mixes playful and preppy.

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04:28 Publié dans News | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)